Tag Archives: Fashion Designers

Katie Eary’s Fan Funded Womenswear

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After earning numerous accolades for her radically unconventional and “dangerously beautiful” menswear collection, British fashion designer Katie Eary appeased her female friends and fans with the launch of her first womenswear line. Eary has consistently proven, with each new collection, that she’s a master of fashion’s yin and yang, evoking either a macabre madness or that of a colorful, contemporary storybook. Eary’s collections represent a newly revised trend which blurs lines between gender appropriate-fashions. With the help of Catwalk Genius, a platform which allows the public to buy shares of a brand they love and thus help fund the upcoming, Catwalk Genius-exclusive collection, Eary was able to create a fan-funded diffusion line of womenswear.

JC Report: When did you realize you wanted to be a designer?



Katie Eary: I’ve been creative from the word “go.” I never actually thought “when I grow up I’m going to be a fashion designer,” more, “I’m going to be an artist!” The Saatchi exhibition, Sensation, changed my life and my outlook on what I could do to leave my mark. And here we are in 2010 and I think I’m getting there.

JCR: Can you talk about your passion for literature and art?

KE: I decided that as much as I love art, I would like to enjoy it from the outside and let it continue to effect me in the way it does. I couldn’t do what Emin, Hirst, Lucas, and the Chapman brothers did. I could only add on to that movement. My decision to become a fashion designer was quite organic and came so naturally, that I went with it and will continue to do so till I have a change of heart. When you’re creative I think you can pretty much turn your hand to anything design wise. Except, in my case, writing! I love Irvine Welsh’s books so much. To me, his writing is so contemporary and exciting, it’s like a Saatchi piece made from language.

JCR: How would you describe the evolution of your personal style?

KE: Again, it’s a very natural process. I like what I like and just do it. It’s the way I’ve lived my life, really, and I guess that a certain ruthlessness reveals itself every time I do a show.

JCR: How did your collaboration with Catwalk Genius come about? Why did you decide to cross over to the womenswear industry and what worried you the most about it?

KE: I was approached by Helen, the director of Catwalk Genius. She offered a win-win proposition and I couldn’t say no! I thought it would be a great way of giving something back to all the women who have been waiting for me to hurry up and do womenswear. A lot of the pieces I have made in the past are delicate, couture, expensive pieces, making them quite unobtainable. So I thought it would be ideal to do a commercial range at an affordable price that coheres with the AW10 collection I just did. The thing that worried me the most was when the shares for the collection went on sale, it felt like sending out invites for your 14th birthday party, saying “Will anyone come?” But after a month, over 80% have been sold, so the party is going well so far!



JCR: What made you try the “public finding” method for your womenswear collection? What are the advantages from the designer’s standpoint?

KE: You know it will sell because the share buyers are interested and believe in you. It makes sense and it’s not as risky as getting a loan to do a womenswear collection, it might go nowhere! But this way, the customer is buying in before the clothes have even gone on the site. Its a good sign!

JCR: Do you see a clear distinction between men’s and women’s clothing? What did you want to bring to the world of women’s fashion that you thought was missing?

KE: I think womenswear is full to the brim of amazing talent. The only thing I can bring to womenswear is a bit of my menswear.

JCR: Can you describe your aesthetic for your womenswear collection? Do you have creative control for this collection?

KE: The aesthetic is sexy jungle. I’m designing for bold, sexy women who hold their own and enjoy the way clothes make them feel. I’ve worn my t-shirts from the AW10 collection and get a lot of comments, so when they are made into amazing, sexy, bodycon dresses and tights, they’ll look even better! I have creative control. The garments are going to be affordable, wearable, and simple. The prints speak for the whole garment.

JCR: What was one of the most interesting lessons learned after designing your womenswear collection? Was it easier or harder than the previous collection?

KE: It was a really nice, relaxing project and the team was lovely and chilled. Thats the only way I like to work. As the ideas started to flow, it organically turned into a nice, little capsule collection, branching from the AW10.

JCR: Now that you have designed both men and women’s clothing, do you plan on designing and developing both collections?

KE: Not yet, I’m sticking to menswear for now. I only did this womenswear collection because it landed in my lap with no risks.

JCR: What are your short-term goals for the men’s and women’s collection? What are your five-year goals?

KE: Short term: A few more catwalks and more amazing collaborations. Long term: Paris, please!

JCR: What is your ideal scenario as a designer?

KE: I work for myself, wake up and do or design whatever I want. I think I’m quite lucky now. I try not to get too greedy with dreams, what will be will be!

Eary’s final message perfectly captured her spirit and love of fashion: “A message to all the ladies: I made this for all the women who have asked me to hurry up and do womenswear. I hope you enjoying wearing it as much as I enjoyed designing it.”

Originally posted on JC Report

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Dossier: Zöe Twitt’s Dramatic Leanings

From left: A look from Zoe Twitt F/W10; The inspiration: the White Lady in La Dame Blanche

At the age of seven, Australian fashion designer Zöe Twitt was already traveling the world visiting textile factories, albeit with her parents who owned a textile company. By the time she hit college, where she dabbled in acting and opera singing, she had a deeply ingrained love of the arts. In 2009 at the age of 26, Twitt combined these passions with her early influences and launched the eponymous womenswear label ZÖETWITT.

Each of Twitt’s collections reflects her ongoing effort to artistically and aesthetically express herself. For F/W10, this meant a return to opera, where she was inspired by the dramatic personalities, costumes, music and stories. Below, Twitt details a number of the female characters who struck her fancy, pairing the originals with their corresponding rebirth in her collection, titled Dark Heart.

Click “Read More” fora additional images.

The Queen of the Night in The Magic Flute

Medea in Médée

Julietta in Julietta

The Fairy Queen in The Fairy Queen

Mother in L’enfant et Les Sortileges

Malwina in Der Vampyr

This entry was written by Sarah Sulzberger Perpich for Dossier Journal

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Sarah for POP 309: Tabitha Simmons

It all began with a blow out sale at Bergdorf Goodman: aka the only time that fashion stylists, assistants and writers can actually afford to buy the designer shoes that they are paid to know inside and out.  I came across the hottest Tabitha Simmons black booties that I immediately recognized from several fashion editorials and mentions in “best picks” lists by every magazine editor.  I instantly fell in love with them and, although I had recently come to the realization that I can’t walk in high heels, decided to buy them. They are spectacularly stunning and stylish and at the same time I can actually stroll down the sidewalk without my normal trembling and twitching.  I must admit that the age-old fashion adage – that wearing high heels makes a woman feel more powerful and confident – is 100 percent true. In Simmons’s stamped and stylish shoes, I felt more surefooted than ever before. I was determined to meet the woman, designer and fashion stylist, behind the shoe that changed my life.

Growing up, did anyone in your life – friend, teacher, family member, mentor – inspire your love and curiosity of fashion and if so who and how?
I was always inspired by fashion. I think the singer Adam Ant was the one who inspired me the first. I loved his sense of style and music and I always tried to dress like him.

What was your first fashion love, clothing or shoes?
I think it was clothing first.

What is your earliest memory of getting a new pair of shoes that you adored?
I remember my first pair of Boy London shoes with a studded cross on the front with beatle crusher soles and spikes coming out of the top.

You also worked as a model. How did you become involved in modeling and why did you transfer into a styling position?
I worked at Joseph as a Saturday Girl while I was at college and got discovered in the shop. I soon realized that I was a rubbish model and I found styling to be more interesting.

I read that when you were styling, you frequently visited the East Village Shoe Repair and commissioned them to design a pair of platform boots for Kate Moss for a W spread. Did you experiment with shoe design at that time?
Yes, all the time! I would make rocking horse shoes out of wood or painter stilts shoes or cut out paper stars and stick them on the front. When I started, I never was given interesting shoes, so I had to improvise.

What ideas, philosophies, or personal mottos helped to prepare you for launching your own footwear?
Don’t follow trends and stay true to what you believe in!!!!

What’s most important, look, fit or comfort?
All of the above as the shoes can look great but if you can’t wear them then there doesn’t seem much point.

What makes your shoes different different from other high-end shoe brands?
I suppose they are quite quirky but feminine.

Can you explain the power and importance of the right shoe?
You can feel so many things with the right shoe: sexy with a stiletto, cool with the right boots…shoes finish off your outfit. I believe in the quote You can tell a lot about a person by their shoes.

Can you tell me which is your favorite style from your collections and which shoe you cannot live without?
My Sally boot from my first collection, and I am back into kitten heels again.

When it comes to footwear what is a Tabitha “Fashion Don’t”?
Crocs. I just can’t bear them!

Originally posted in Pop Magazine.  Read it here.

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Fashion’s Fallen Angel: Long Live McQueen

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I am deeply saddened to report that one of fashion’s true visionaries of this time, Alexander McQueen has died. He was found at his London home and pronounced dead at the scene and it is believed to be a result of suicide.

McQueen was one of the most influential and visionary fashion designers in the world. He was a master manipulator of material and a true tailor at heart.  His shows were always over the top and incredibly lavish and outrageous but always captivating and beautifully erotic. They were famous for being outlandish, lavish, magically surreal, and literally a feast for the eyes.

His talent was immediately spotted upon graduating from Central Saint Martin College of Art and he sold his entire first collection to the quintessential fashion stylist, Isabella Blow-later not only his fan but also his magical muse. What she initially responded to would soon be emulated by all fashion buyers, editors, and consumers. _mcqueen1He paid incredible attention to detail and embraced technology to infinitely push his collections into the future. He was the most futuristic fashion designer of our time with even his last fashion show resembling a nuclear meltdown with alien like creatures creeping and crawling  down the runway followed by huge monitors and screens running the show live online with the help of Nick Knight from Showstudio. _mcqueen2I was at that show, not realizing that it would be his last, and I feel so grateful to have been able to take part in a historic moment in fashion. One that will never be repeated. McQueen was a true master of the ever-changing fashion system and stood firmly in front of the trends, never following them but always leading them. He never shied way from pushing boundaries and always stayed true to his passion for designing for the sake of art and to satisfy his creativity sometimes making clothes that seemed more like costumes or wearable art than clothing made for functionality or practicality. And he always left you hungry for more. McQueen is truly Fashion’s Fallen Angel and his untouchable imprint in fashion’s ever changing world will never be forgotten. Long Live McQueen.

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