Tag Archives: Editorials

Bye-Bye Bra Boo-Boos

Bra shopping: I have loved it, hated it, spent more money than I should on expensive ones at Henri Bendels, and recently sought out the cheapest at Target or The Gap. Being a born again Recessionista, I thought that kind of money ($200 or more) better spent on an array of t-shirts and jeans from American Apparel, a dozen international fashion magazines, dinner at Whole Foods for a week or the occasional indulgence of a cab ride.

And while most women have to buy new bras over the years to keep up with changing breast size and shape, I’ve been lucky enough to wear the same size I first fit into at age 13. Which is another way of saying I have the same flat as a wall, barely-there boobies 17 years later.

I spent most of my life hating my prepubescent chest and avoiding body conscious shirts and dresses because I would look like a boy on the tops and “pregnant” (as I was called at least four times in my life) on the bottom.  Then New Years Eve 2009 I decided to do something radical: I put on a skintight dress.  That it took three bras, one strapless padded, one regular padded, and jelly inserts, to make it work didn’t matter. It worked so well that, something I had always thought shallow and trashy – the boob job – became my new obsession. But like a bad trend, about ten days and 10 Victoria’s Secret push up bras later, this phase thankfully came to an end.  I was over it and the so were the bras, which were stuffed in the garbage thus erasing all evidence.

“Something I had always thought shallow and trashy – the boob job – became my new obsession.”

About two months ago, at age 30, my belief that the only things that mattered in a bra was that it had a hook, was under $20, and didn’t dig into my chest with underwire was challenged. My fashion career had taken off. With requisite TV appearances, designer interviews and fashion videos there were many times I found myself changing clothes in rooms with no privacy.  My favorite flamboyant beauty and hair experts Taymor and Hector consistently commented about my bad bra choices: ongoing jokes that were made even funnier because they were completely warranted.

Fashion designers, friends, and family also began to make subtle comments about my undergarments. But the straw that broke the camel’s back was when Taymor, in the middle of doing my makeup suddenly stopped, stepped back and taking a full look head to toe exclaimed,

“Sarah, What is up with your bra? It’s not doing anything for you! It’s too small, too tight and does nothing for your torso. Get some padding. You need a bra that gives you some POW like a cartoon goddess: think Jessica Rabbit.”

Fighting with and avoiding the bra situation was no longer going to fly so I decided to take action.  I asked if anyone knew a good bra store and the feedback was unanimous: “Go to Bra Smyth on Broadway at 77th Street”. Despite feelings of apprehension, I shyly entered the store and explained to the woman who greeted me, Fahima, my situation: I had never bought a bra that actually fits.  In response, she simply smiled and signaled me to follow her to the dressing room. She walked in behind me, shut the door, and said, “Take it off.”  I had flashbacks of when I first went to the bra store and had to take off my shirt in front of a salesgirl, but this time I was much less timid.  I stood in the dressing room in nothing but a pair of cut-off shorts and RayBans while she walked slowly around me staring at my torso the entire time.

bra-fittingWithin about 30 seconds, she left the room saying only, “I’ll be right back”. About two minutes later she returned holding six bras of varying styles, shapes, cup and width sizes. I was rather incredulous: how could this woman possibly figure out the best bra for my body without asking me my size or even measuring my chest? She insisted that I start trying them on, and with nothing to lose, I took the first bra from her and hooked myself in.  I immediately went into shock:

“Oh. My. God.  Did she really do it? Is she a magician? Am I really wearing a bra that is flattering, comfortable and actually fits my body?”

Fahima quickly diagnosed and described why I had experienced such difficulty with bra sizes and shapes and then identified all of the bras in her store that would best fit my body and why. She handed two bras to the seamstress in the back of the store for alterations: one needed to be wider so she moved the hook, and one was beautiful but had zero support so she inserted some padding.  I had never heard of bra alterations before and it seemed like it could be hassle but was completed within minutes and best of all it was FREE.  She worked like a scientist, observing and getting everything exactly right. She reassuringly added, “No two bodies are the same…I have the same shape as you do,” making the process a lot less uncomfortable and even a little exciting.  I walked up to the cashier where she had laid out all of the bras we had selected: four black ones, two white ones, a nude tone, four lace bras, and one strapless.  In less than an hour she managed to solve my lifelong battle with the bra.

The first thing I did when I got home was throw out every bra I ever bought making room for my new bras. I was starting a new chapter in my life leaving behind the bad bras and the bad feelings.  I never really realized how important a bra is to the overall outfit until I actually had the “right” one: one that fits. Now that I do, my only regret is that I didn’t go to a bra specialist sooner.

Bra Smyth Broadway
2177 Broadway
(corner of 77th St.)
NY, NY 10024
212.721.5111

http://www.brasmyth.com/

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Menswear gets a Democratic Makeover: “Metrosexual” is Finally Moot

From Sarah: After countless failed attempts to include and incorporate insightful and cutting-edge news and reports from the wonderful world of Menswear, I knew that there was only thing for me to do…  find a male fashion expert to act as a guest contributor.  The only man for the job is my fashion sidekick and renowned fashion historian and curator, Stéphane Houy-Towner (aka the ‘ying’ to my fashion ‘yang’).  Thank goodness he agreed and so for the first time ever on this blog, courtesy of Stéphane Houy-Towner, here is a post covering the world of menswear….

Over a decade ago in a flourishing economy and with the media in tow, a term hijacked the popular culture and forced many men to define or to redefine themselves. The fashion industry banked on this phenomenon and envisioned a completely new male customer to sell to: the Metrosexual.

Metrosexual
Main Entry: met·ro·sex·u·al
Pronunciation: \ˌme-trə-ˈsek-sh(ə-)wəl, -ˈsek-shəl\
Function: noun
Etymology: metropolitan + -sexual (as in heterosexual)
Date: 1994
: a usually urban heterosexual male given to enhancing his personal appearance by fastidious grooming, beauty treatments, and fashionable clothes
metrosexual adjective
met·ro·sex·u·al·i·ty \-ˌsek-shə-ˈwa-lə-tē\ noun

I personally didn’t understand its relevance, or its attraction (and I still don’t; then again, I am European-born).  I didn’t understand how it should define a new type of well-put-together American male, and subsequently many men globally. The concept of a clean aesthetic –some of its key characteristics: well-fitting clothes, stylish haircuts, toned skin, and weekly manicures – doesn’t reinvent the wheel in any shape or form.  You may look more polished and perfectly groomed, but it doesn’t compare to the rugged American masculinity exemplified a generation earlier by Burt Reynolds in his 1972 Cosmopolitan centerfold.

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(Burt Reynolds – 1972)

In retrospect, since the late 1970s and 1980s, fashion advertising began to blatantly objectify and to sexualize men. Fashion designers such as Gianni Versace and Giorgio Armani in Milan, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler in Paris, Calvin Klein with his collaboration with the photographer Bruce Webber in New York, all, shamelessly heralded a new breed of polished beefcakes as the new ideal of masculinity. In these cases, the overtly homoerotic factor legitimized the style, helped push the frontier where no self-identifying straight male had dared to venture before. Burt Reynolds’ butch moustache and hairy chest were shorn and replaced by a fresh-face hair-less tight-body Adonis. A clean esthetic pursuit became the new Holy Grail… for gay males at first, then models and sport figures, and now the public at large.

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(Giorgio Armani – 1986)

By the time “Metrosexual” arrived on the scene and was legitimized as a dictionary term in 1994, metrosexuality had become the new “black”. You couldn’t escape it, even if you tried; its omnipresence in the media was undeniable –talk show host Oprah Winfrey couldn’t get enough of men who fit either the metrosexual or ‘down-low’ bandwagon, and comedian Kathy Griffin even came up with a sketch-routine on finding out if your potential boyfriend was metrosexual or simply gay by peering into his fridge (Perrier, champagne, foie gras and caviar would send you to the gay gallows, except if European/foreign… would Canadians get a free pass?). Why was this term suddenly so important and given so much airtime? Beats me!

Historically, western-European men only began to ‘dress-down’ in the mid-19th century as a result of the industrial revolution, hence “the great masculine renunciation”. With their newly developed bourgeois uniform, gentlemen followed the pendulum of fashion, updating their “little black suit” and fastidiously tweaking themselves at the barbershop –where their heads, like topiaries, followed the constant changes in facial ‘manscaping’ of the day. Hands and feet, all beautifully accessorized, followed the well-polished trends. Self-expressions of style were done subtlety.

Regnault 1851

(Regnault – 1851)

Elegance was an obligation to any man worth his salt. Urbanites dutifully reeked, purchased and calculated elegance. After all, in the United States, great land of opportunities, the industrial revolution allowed many to successfully climb the social ladder regardless of prior birthright. The great taste-makers/dandies of the 19th century –Beau Brummel, Boni de Castellane, Edward VII of England, amongst others—led the way for Hollywood leading men like Douglas Fairbanks, Cary Grant, Gary Cooper, even John Wayne, to lead style onto the masses deep into the 20th century. This formula is still visible today, just open magazines in your dentist’s waiting room, check out blogs or iPhone applications… you still know who wears what, but now you know where to get it and for how much!

What has changed recently, with a large section of the male population, is a blatant disregard for boundaries and imposed labels. It is now much more difficult to tell who is what and to which group one is associated to, as styles favored by various groups now generously overlap. Generation Y (one of the largest components of this new consumer base: the under 30 group), like the youth-quake of the 1960s, is inducing change. But unlike the Youth Generation of the 1960s that thrived on modernity and social optimism, Generation Y and its neighboring groups all march to their own drums while ignoring the greater social picture. These perceivably “selfish individuals” are redefining the way the fashion industry approaches the male customer.

The current men’s collections in Milan and Paris exemplify this diversity and sliding scale effect of the current taste. Labels, such as “Metrosexual”, don’t seem to hold any relevance anymore. “Individuality” is now the new label, if not a label, an unrelenting state of mind.

Ann Demeulemeester Homme P_E 2011

(Ann Demeulmeester – 2011)

The latest Milan and Paris menswear collections presented a never-ending smörgåsbord of diversity, with a macadam of tailored looks varying from the traditional, directional to the sensational. Moneyed “Classic Resort” looks –what we think of when talking about chic men– graced many collections from Burberry, Salvatore Ferragamo to Hermès. Others experimented with colorful patterns/motifs, such as Roverto Cavalli, Kenzo and Missoni; Giorgio Armani, Jill Sander and Dsquared opted for separates in vivid hues. Dior Homme, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Raf Simmons reinterpreted the potential casualness of masculine suits by pairing tailoring with looseness; whereas, Ann Demeulmeester and Yves Saint Laurent spun around the traditional silhouettes. We shall see if the more extreme experimental looks of Balenciaga, Rick Owens or Raf Simmons will fancy the adventurous customers.

Jill Sander P_E 2011

(Jill Sander – 2011)

On that note, Givenchy even dropped the “leopard” bomb with a well-turned suit entirely conceived from head to toe in leopard print.

Givenchi Homme P_E 2011

(Givenchy – 2011)

Could a generation who grew up witnessing the changes of sartorial acceptability by selected sub-cultures (namely, Gay culture) and raised on the internet, be the litmus test for today’s democratic sartorial modernity? I would have to say yes. And frankly, it is about time, we have been waiting for you!

Written by: Stéphane Houy-Towner

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Shopping with Sarah: affordable seasonless staples spotted in Soho

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OAK NYC: Cheap Monday for A.OK $74

Seductive, Stylish & most importantly NOT TOO SHORT. This style is perfect at any age!


Madewell Beau Vest    $78

Madewell Beau Vest $78

A fitted vest adds a feminine touch with a dash of sex appeal to the menswear trend.


scarf

Madewell Pointillist Scarf $58

Running late and need to make an outfit pop? A bold scarf will do the trick!


Madewell Necklaces

Madewell Necklaces
Necklace 1
$58     Necklace 2 $78     Necklace 3 $98

Adding statement jewelry turns your outfit from weak to chic.


Madewell Tank $34
Madewell Draped Racerback Tank
$34

Nothing’s more basic or more versatile than a white tank.  Instantly edgy with a pair of jean shorts and a multi-strand necklace, it’s also perfect for a layered look hanging loose under a jacket and sweater, or tucked into a pencil skirt for a more refined effect.


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Madewell Garcon Blazer $117.60

The ideal and always popular boyfriend blazer.


Topshop Knitted Stitch Trim Cardigan

Knitted Stitch Trim Cardigan $65

Cardigans have always been a staple; you can find them anywhere, any style, and any price. Nothing beats this cozy, stylish, and flattering cardigan for your air-conditioned office, a long plane ride, or for a chilly summer night out.


Wolford body suit $200

Wolford Bahamas Body Suit $200

Not only is a body suit an ideal solution when struggling to find the perfect shell under a suit jacket or blazer, but it also creates an impeccably sleek and sexy top when paired with a full and flirty skirt for an evening soirée.


Aldo Babbel Pumps $90

Aldo Babbel Pump $90

Every woman must have at least one pair of black pumps in her closet that not only adds instant sex appeal and glam to an outfit, but also magically makes a woman feel more confident and assertive. These pumps can elevate your appearance and attitude in any season.


Malachy Leather Ballet Shoe
Malachy Leather Ballet Sho
e $50

In addition to a pump, every woman should have at least one pair of ballet flats handy: they add classic gamine style to any look and are great to wear when you want a break from your heels.


Acne black hex cash jeans $225

Acne black hex cash jeans $225
Quintessential mid-rise sexy skinny jeans are always a must.

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Dossier: Zöe Twitt’s Dramatic Leanings

From left: A look from Zoe Twitt F/W10; The inspiration: the White Lady in La Dame Blanche

At the age of seven, Australian fashion designer Zöe Twitt was already traveling the world visiting textile factories, albeit with her parents who owned a textile company. By the time she hit college, where she dabbled in acting and opera singing, she had a deeply ingrained love of the arts. In 2009 at the age of 26, Twitt combined these passions with her early influences and launched the eponymous womenswear label ZÖETWITT.

Each of Twitt’s collections reflects her ongoing effort to artistically and aesthetically express herself. For F/W10, this meant a return to opera, where she was inspired by the dramatic personalities, costumes, music and stories. Below, Twitt details a number of the female characters who struck her fancy, pairing the originals with their corresponding rebirth in her collection, titled Dark Heart.

Click “Read More” fora additional images.

The Queen of the Night in The Magic Flute

Medea in Médée

Julietta in Julietta

The Fairy Queen in The Fairy Queen

Mother in L’enfant et Les Sortileges

Malwina in Der Vampyr

This entry was written by Sarah Sulzberger Perpich for Dossier Journal

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Sarah for POP 309: Tabitha Simmons

It all began with a blow out sale at Bergdorf Goodman: aka the only time that fashion stylists, assistants and writers can actually afford to buy the designer shoes that they are paid to know inside and out.  I came across the hottest Tabitha Simmons black booties that I immediately recognized from several fashion editorials and mentions in “best picks” lists by every magazine editor.  I instantly fell in love with them and, although I had recently come to the realization that I can’t walk in high heels, decided to buy them. They are spectacularly stunning and stylish and at the same time I can actually stroll down the sidewalk without my normal trembling and twitching.  I must admit that the age-old fashion adage – that wearing high heels makes a woman feel more powerful and confident – is 100 percent true. In Simmons’s stamped and stylish shoes, I felt more surefooted than ever before. I was determined to meet the woman, designer and fashion stylist, behind the shoe that changed my life.

Growing up, did anyone in your life – friend, teacher, family member, mentor – inspire your love and curiosity of fashion and if so who and how?
I was always inspired by fashion. I think the singer Adam Ant was the one who inspired me the first. I loved his sense of style and music and I always tried to dress like him.

What was your first fashion love, clothing or shoes?
I think it was clothing first.

What is your earliest memory of getting a new pair of shoes that you adored?
I remember my first pair of Boy London shoes with a studded cross on the front with beatle crusher soles and spikes coming out of the top.

You also worked as a model. How did you become involved in modeling and why did you transfer into a styling position?
I worked at Joseph as a Saturday Girl while I was at college and got discovered in the shop. I soon realized that I was a rubbish model and I found styling to be more interesting.

I read that when you were styling, you frequently visited the East Village Shoe Repair and commissioned them to design a pair of platform boots for Kate Moss for a W spread. Did you experiment with shoe design at that time?
Yes, all the time! I would make rocking horse shoes out of wood or painter stilts shoes or cut out paper stars and stick them on the front. When I started, I never was given interesting shoes, so I had to improvise.

What ideas, philosophies, or personal mottos helped to prepare you for launching your own footwear?
Don’t follow trends and stay true to what you believe in!!!!

What’s most important, look, fit or comfort?
All of the above as the shoes can look great but if you can’t wear them then there doesn’t seem much point.

What makes your shoes different different from other high-end shoe brands?
I suppose they are quite quirky but feminine.

Can you explain the power and importance of the right shoe?
You can feel so many things with the right shoe: sexy with a stiletto, cool with the right boots…shoes finish off your outfit. I believe in the quote You can tell a lot about a person by their shoes.

Can you tell me which is your favorite style from your collections and which shoe you cannot live without?
My Sally boot from my first collection, and I am back into kitten heels again.

When it comes to footwear what is a Tabitha “Fashion Don’t”?
Crocs. I just can’t bear them!

Originally posted in Pop Magazine.  Read it here.

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Candy Pratts Price: A Candy-Coated Classroom

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In my ongoing pursuit of interviewing Candy Pratts Price – repetitive emailing, endless phone calls, and weekly inbox updates and reminders, she graciously invited me to exclusive blog coverage of a private guest appearance and speech for the SPCA program at NYU. The professor is fashion legend June Weir, who previously was the top fashion editor and journalist at Harper’s Bazaar and WWD and remains invested and involved in the fashion industry today. Weir asked Candy to speak to her class about “The Changing World of Fashion Magazines,” and who better than the Creative Director of vogue.com?

Candy opened by showing her first “Candycast Blast” as an example of what the new online world of fashion journalism looks like. It was like getting a sneak peek at the last page of a great book. The infiltration and domination of the internet age has forced fashion editors and journalists to think differently and, as Candy said, start a “new conversation” and dialogue for the web.

Although her work for vogue.com, relationships, and even her personal life exist in a virtual world, she she confidently states that there always be  a place for print. She recognizes the endless opportunities and benefits of the WWW, but also admits, “I love paper… holding it, flipping it is in your own control.” She discussed some of the latest tech devices for wireless reading, specifically the iPad, as having vast potential due to it’s universal “lean back” appeal – similar to to how one reads a magzine or book.

Then Candy hearkened back to the beginning of her career, honestly and openly walking us through chapters, describing in detail her past fashion careers and her personal accomplishments. She started with a rhetorical question, “how did I get where I am today?” her answer,”I wanted to be at the top, live a glamorous life, and be financially independent!”

She led us through her internships at FIT; first being a Christmas Angel at Bergdorf Goodman and second Bachrach, the society photographers. This is when Candy realized the power of an image and was incredibly inspired and intrigued with the idea of “ how an image is captured.” After graduating FIT, Candy’s various jobs and power in the fashion industry can be summed up by one word: “windows.”

She began as a window shopper or at least in a position on the outside looking in. One day she was walking past the Charles Jourdan boutique and out corner of her eye she spotted a fabulous pair of yellow suede sandals in the window display. Knowing she needed to have them, she went inside and asked for a job selling shoes, disregarding the store’s elite and selective recruiting process and a preference for hiring French women. She got the job though, and moved from humble shoe-girl, to the untouchable master of window dressing and displays. Candy borrowed art from the MOMA, which was across the street, everyday to decorate the store and window display. Every single day was a different window – and fashion at its most sensational. Candy noted that the window display was essentially “where liberal arts landed.”

Once Candy’s windows caught the attention of Marvin Traub the Bloomingdales family, Candy went from working solo at Charles Jourdan, to the Creative Director of all of the Bloomingdale’s window displays and storefronts, with a staff of 150, plus the union, plus an on-hand team of carpenters under her belt. She describes her time at Bloomingdale’s as “the best time of her life” and one of the hottest and most exciting times in retail history.

She loved retail, but after mastering the system, she wanted to face new challenges – thus, she entered the world of publishing. After one phone call from Anna Wintour asking Candy to become a part of her “New Vogue,” Candy knew she wanted “in and to be part of this new revolution”. She created and organized the VH1 Vogue Fashion Awards which was one of the first events bringing fashion and music together – branding. The second the internet and online world hit the fashion publishing industry, Candy received another call from Anna this time asking her to move to www.style.com.

Candy immediately took the job, helping to develop the site, to make it special and successful. She insisted that to truly succeed, the website should reflect a “curated magazine with no borrowed content.” Candy describes the “world of a website as 24/7,” leaving her little time for her personal life, although she does get to travel. Interacting and observing real people still has its merits. As Candy points out, “I need to see how you walk, what you eat, and how you wear your pearls otherwise I would never be able to tell people the proper way to wear them.”

Candy Pratts Price has recently moved to www.vogue.com where she is the Creative Director.

As she closed her talk, Candy asked for questions from Weir’s students. One asked, “Is the digital world crowding out magazine print?” Candy responded in a sentence that perfectly reinforced the lecture’s bottom line: “No. There is room for both a short story article as well as a breaking fashion news one-liner.”

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Designers Turn to Target

Originally published in
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Target has become the melting pot where high-end fashion design meets the masses, bringing the runway to the city streets. The most recent example was Zac Posen’s 24-hour shopping soiree last night in Herald Square celebrating the launch of his collection for Target. 
 
Fashion, which was once only available to an exclusive elite, has spread like a democratic pandemic erasing the distinction between the high and low in apparel design. The diffusion lines and collaborations between high-end designers with lower priced, readily available retailers have forever restructured the class system of the fashion world.

The conspicuous consumption of the 90s was cut short by the market crash and what would become the worst recession in recent history. Consumer confidence has been crushed and the retail industry has hit an all time low. Conspicuous consumption has been replaced by careful, calculated, and socially conscious spending patterns. The savvy shoppers who once flooded the high-end boutiques are charting new territories: mass marketing retail stores, outlets, low- end retailers, and online sample sales.

Target was one of the first companies to recognize the trend and helped spread the fast fashion epidemic with its uncanny ability to pick the right designers to work with them. Through their Designer Collaboration, a unique program that features well-established designers who draw inspiration from a collaborative partner, muse or creative element, as well as the Go International program, focusing on younger and emerging designer fashion for the masses, Target has paved the way for the democratization of the retail industry. Target collaborations have continued to formulate a winning equation for both the designer and retailer- the designer gains notoriety, accessibility and visibility and the big box stores gain a level of buzz and credibility among the next generation of fashion savvy customers.

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Zac Posen is the latest fashion designer to expand his brand into the mainstream marketplace by partnering with Target for their Go International range. His creative collaboration includes his iconic bias cut and flattering silhouettes that dominate the red carpets. His collection also included a variety of sharp darted and ruched bikinis and one pieces in either glitzy metallics or bright paint-splattered prints.

Posen has successfully managed to maintain a prominent place among fashion’s favorite women’s ready-to-wear designers since beginning his line in 2001. For Target, Posen proves once again he is no stranger to adapting, creating an impressive fashion equilibrium between his ready-to-wear, diffusion and now his fast fashion collaborative collection.

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In addition to affecting lower- and middle-income consumers, the prolonged US recession has begun to impact high income, luxury brand consumers. YM Ousley, the publisher and founding Editor of Signature9 conducted a study called “Where the Wealthy Shop Online,’ from which he concluded, “At moderately priced stores, wealthy consumers are comfortable shopping at full price, but for luxury goods, these same high earners prefer to wait for seasonal sales or visit flash sale sites.”

Rather than snatching up the latest design in a high-end boutique or department stores, today’s wealthy shopper makes decisions based on price and is more likely to wait for the designs to appear in a massive chain store like Target, H&M or TopShop.

Since the inception of the Target’s collaboration with Alexander McQueen in March 2009, fashion designers have seemed enthusiastic about spreading their fashions to the masses as they were about their ready-to-wear collections. McQueen spoke with excitement about launching the collection, “Apart from the East and West Coasts, my company doesn’t have any visibility in the U.S.,” he said. “I always liked the idea of people in the Midwest wearing my clothes. The idea of this upstart from London going to where people haven’t heard of me, I think that was interesting to me.” And, he added, “I think it’s quite adventurous of Target.”

McQueen saw Target as a chance to “win over an untapped audience” and open his brand up to an extremely viable market. The concept of equating cost with style seems passé, whereas Targets motto “Design For All” is the ultimate in modernity and for now the future of fashion.

Zac Posen completely agrees with McQueen’s sentiment. “This definitely gives any woman the ability to get Zac Posen style, collection and attitude.” He is thrilled with the newfound ability to “really achieve democratization of fashion and show diversity.”

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Posen expressed his concern for the viability of the fashion industry in an unstable economic climate, “Fashion is a money losing enterprise as an industry. The department stores need to change, the magazines need to change and evolve and the fragrance industry needs to change. I’m trying to shake up and change the industry. It’s resting on its’ laurels. It’s a really powerful time for the designers and for the companies to start redefining luxury beyond clothing.”

Although he was hesitant to collaborate in the past, Posen candidly explains his change of heart, “We need the money.”

Creating a collection for a different market does not devalue your brand if it is done correctly. Target works because they keep it true to the designer and it is not about watering down the fashion. Posen’s Target collection follows in Alexander McQueen’s footsteps as a perfect example of a taking a luxury fashion house and making it work for a different market because it is about the Design not the price tag. Fast fashion and collaborations with high-end designers like Posen and have proven to not only be examples of the current fashion zeitgeist, but also appear to be the fashion retail model for the future.

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In your 30s: Dress Shirt vs. Mini Skirt?

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At the end of last month it happened. I said a sad goodbye to the fun and reckless days of my twenties and finally hit the dooming 30th birthday. The moment that I thought would forever change my feelings of responsibility, maturity, dreams and a direction for my life now that I was what I had labeled “old”.
I have been in fashion for the past 14 years and styling and personal style have always come naturally to me. I always broke rules as I saw fit and took outrageous fashion risks without even blinking an eyelash. Fashion has always been fun and creative for me, and most importantly, I have never censored myself or even felt bound to any certain fashion stereotype.
Yet two days after turning the big 3-0, I began to read my normal mélange of $17 international fashion magazines that had piled up in the corner of my apartment and it immediately hit me: the topic of age appropriate dressing is everywhere-even the difference between 20-somethings and 30-somethings. Harpers Bazaar Magazine is famous for covering this conundrum and continuously tries to present clothing options for all age groups in “Fabulous at Every Age.”
harpers-bazaar-2008-dec-lindsay-lohan I had not even considered the quandary of age appropriate dressing during my sleepless nights filled with anxiety about turning thirty. But now I wondered did I also need change my style simply because I was now 29 and 364 days old? Does the 365th day now mean that society has drawn a new line in the sand of my fashionable lifespan?
My immediate reaction to age appropriate dressing was to reconsider my existing wardrobe and myself. Did I agree with all of the reports that the 30s meant the end of my favorite mini skirts, bikinis, tattoos, and oodles and oodles of jewelry? Did it mean that my brand new skinny jeans with slashes worn with over-sized t-shirts would now be transformed from rebellious and trendy to messy and tacky?

Every blog, magazine, book or website I read all highlighted the notion that in your 20s anything goes. Conversely, the 30 year mark all indicate the same message: This is an age when a style change is needed.
In “How Not to look Old”, a book written by former beauty editor of Glamour, Charla Krupp, there is a section on tips for turning 30, and what clothing is now deemed too young. She included: micro-minis, flip-flops in the city, nameplate necklaces, boy shorts and collegiate sweaters and t-shirts. Every single one of those items is presently hanging in my closet.
After digesting all of the age old rules of dressing and reassessing my closet, I realized that especially in this youth obsessed, botox injecting, personal training and raw food dieting age, people are beginning to look younger and younger as they get older and older. As the New York Times wrote in 2005, “Is 40 the new 30? Style redefines age.” I believe that there is no longer a finite timeline that dictates what you can and cannot wear and at what age. The lines have become sandy and although I do agree that mother/daughter shopping trips and copycat clothing seems ridiculous, it truly depends on the person, and putting the pieces together. 20s30sAlthough Coco Chanel’s philosophy was “There is no fashion for the old”, I believe that fashion gets even more exciting and in fact flattering with age and experience. The key is tailoring and proportions and -most importantly- poise and confidence. As long as I still feel attractive and sexy in my mini skirts or low cut blouses, perhaps altering a small accessory or piece of the fashion puzzle if need be, I will continue to wear my masterpieces.

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The "F" Word

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In an interview, Valerie Steele, the Chief Curator of the Museum of Fashion at FIT, describes the word “fashion” as the “F-word.”  In the 70’s, fashion had negative connotations, and Steele fought a long, uphill battle to create Fashion Studies in a world that did not yet respect it.

Later, in the 90’s with the introduction of waif-like and fragile teenage model Kate Moss, the “F-word” has come to represent the stigma of “fat.”  Despite hopeful attempts by some of the most influential in modern media, “fat” retains its “F word” status when it applies to models in the fashion industry.

V magazine dedicated its #63 release to the “Size Issue.” Unfortunately, New York Magazine’s cover story, “Return of the Voluptuous,” seemed promising, but led readers only to a disappointing two-page spread.  And the subject, Christina Hendricks, is actually an actress, not a model at all.  The cover featuring Christina with her lustrous red hair cascading down one bare shoulder, her white eyelet corset and matching rompers, appeared more objectified than soldier for the cause.

Because I am a plus-size model, they make me an example,” says Crystal Renn in a New York Times article The Triumph of the Size 12. “When designers and editors choose one fat girl to salivate over, and revel in her avoirdupois, I’m not sure how much it advances the cause of using girls in all sizes in a magazine.

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Just a month after the V Magazine Size Issue was released, dialogue was sparked during New York Fashion Week.  Last Tuesday a panel organized by the CFDA’s Health Initiate Committee was held in New York City.  The committee included fashion journalists, casting agents, fashion designers, fashion editors, showroom representatives, models and an eating disorder specialist.  The hope was to save prepubescent size-zero children, and those fighting anorexia or any other self-destructive behavior that combats their bodies’ natural ability to grow and develop.

One goal for the panel was to investigate “resizing the sample size.”  Consistently, designers create samples in only a size zero.  This forces models to achieve the size zero body type.  But the conversation quickly turned from the models’ sizes to the model’s ages.  It seems the two can never truly be separate issues.

Tonne Goodman, the stylist from Vogue, slyly explained her role in the micro-mini sample sizes, almost deflecting blame onto others in the industry.  “The designers, casting agents and stylist all precede me before the sample is in my hands… the size of the sample dictates the model I can put in it.”  One would think, though, that Vogue might have the power to persuade a designer to create a bigger sample.

In fact, if sample sizes are too small, it seems obvious that all of the panel members could strategize, collaborate and demand to change the sample size at its inception.  This change would thereby alter the shape of the model at the fashion shoot, on the runway, and then, finally, the size of the garment in our shops.

It also seems a bit ironic that these tiny samples sizes and the waif-like spindly models, portrayed parading around the runways and in the ubiquitous fashion  campaigns, are the opposite profile of the actual consumer demographic who can afford to shop and spend religiously and routinely on designer clothing and accessories. A 12 year old doesn’t have the income to buy a $7,000 jacket and $4,500 tote, so, why  does the fashion industry continue to promote and present their ideas through an identity that off the runway or photo shoot, does not resemble physically, emotionally or financially, the women who can actually afford to buy these items. The majority of the young models only get a glimpse into the high end designer filled closet and beautiful clothes for the duration of the shoot or runway show. After the last picture is taken or the model has walked her last look for a show, she immediately changes back into her Target jeans from the childrens’ section, an oversize white American Apparel t shirt, and her beat up old Chucks.

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Zac Posen, always an advocate for women of all sizes, represented the fashion designers at the panel.  Along with Diane Von Furstenberg this season, Zac proudly cast the gorgeous supermodel Coco Rocha, a whopping size four.  Rocha was undeniably the most beautiful, sexy, and still incredibly thin, model to walk the runway.  At the CFDA panel, both she and Zac agreed that the sample size should be changed to a size four.

Recently, there was discussion in the news about plus sized models generally being a size twelve.  In reality, size fourteen is actually the average size of regular American women.  Adding insult to injury, only a few weeks later, a size four is argued to be too large for the runway.

I am not in demand for shows anymore,” a frustrated Coco Rocha tells the New York Times.  At only a size four, she has been kicked out of castings, runway shows and print ads.  On her blog, she writes “I’m a 21 year old model, six inches taller and ten sizes smaller than the average American woman.  Yet in another parallel universe I’m considered fat.

All of this begs the question, can’t we all unite, throw away our hypocrisy and merge the dichotomy of the real world and the fashion world into one?  Can’t we make Coco’s parallel universes meet at a crossroads?  Can’t we work collectively to change the sample size for the bigger, better and more accepting?  The answer is dependent upon every person involved in all aspects of the fashion cycle.  Without every one aboard for the same destination, our ship is stuck at port with a size zero.  That the discussion is happening makes me hopeful that we will pull anchor and embrace the sea’s full array of shapes and sizes.  Maybe this will help average American women utter with relief the F-word we’ve wanted to say to the fashion industry for years – “Finally!”

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Ageism Invades the Fashion Blogosphere!

After much contemplation and frustration with an ever-growing number of rejection emails in my inbox from numerous fashion designers for the New York Fashion Shows, I have come to the conclusion that models are not the only one’s with expiration dates-Bloggers are too.

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First and foremost there is the 13-year old brilliant and bright eyed erudite fashion blogger Tavi who is going on her second season sitting front row for New York Ready-to-Wear shows and even more importantly, just returned from the hottest shows in the world, sitting front row at Paris Haute Couture.  Following closely behind her are her slightly older cohorts Bryan Boy and Susie Bubble. These are just a few of the new famous fashion stars in a freshman class of numerous other young and precocious fashion following devotees.

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Fashion bloggers have become ubiquitous today. A fashion show without bloggers is like a fashion show without clothing. It just doesn’t exist anymore. In 2006 an article from WWD stated,

“There is an enormous, and growing, number of fashion and shopping-related blogs: about 2 million, according to Technorati Inc., or slightly less than 10 percent of the 27 million blogs the company tracks.”

Four years later, this number is going be exponentially greater.  If fashion bloggers are growing at a rate that could alert population control on the Internet, why is it that so few of this enormous group of creative and passionate fashion writers are recognized?  To be fair, I agree that certainly some fashion bloggers are more articulate, fashion savvy and perceptive than others, but can’t it be possible that there are bloggers equally as intuitive and fashionably knowledgeable that are older?

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Why is the front row now dominated by nine, 15 , and 20 year olds?

My conclusion, bloggers have become victims of ageism. I had this epiphany when reading an article about a new blogger on the scene named Katie who is a total of five years old.  Can she even dress herself yet? I learned later that Katie had been recruited by  Racked National a fashion website to review this weeks New York Fashion Shows.

The question becomes, has the fashion mantra “your time has passed” reared its ugly head on the blogger community?  Models aren’t the only ones who have to worry about growing older now, fashion enthusiasts need to rethink and reevaluate their role in the fashion blogosphere…. And so I ask myself… at 29, am I too old for this? It’s a no-brainer-Of Course Not! I live for this and with each post and each day I grow older, my passion and love for fashion grows that much stronger.  Bloggers Beware-I will be religiously fashion blogging all the way to the nursing home.

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