Tag Archives: Dossier Journal

Dossier in Conversation with Jaime Perlman

Originally published in
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Jaime Perlman is the Art Director of British Vogue and founder of Test. Image by Jermain Francis.

Sarah Perpich: What are some of your earliest and fondest fashion images and memories? Growing up, did anyone in your life inspire and spark your love and curiosity of fashion or art?

Jaime Perlman: My parents sent me to art school on Saturdays in Philadelphia when I was just a kid in the ’80s—I studied sculpture. I remember walking around South Street in awe of all the punks with black lipstick and leather. I secretly wanted to be them…

Sarah: Do you see art and fashion as separate entities: Is Fashion Art? Is Art Fashion? Are you more passionate about one than the other?

Jaime: Fashion is a form of expression, like art, but it’s also a business… There’s so much scope for creativity within this industry and the lines between art and commercialism are often blurred. Fashion shoots and films that we make can be artistic with the specific intention to sell product or an image.

Sarah: Can you describe your country-hopping career path and how it led you to your role as Art Director at British Vogue?

Jaime: I left New York for the job at British Vogue. Conde Nast sponsored me to come over. I always dreamed of living in London and was slightly obsessed with British pop culture. I’ve learned so much coming here and feel lucky to have been given the opportunity to live and work abroad.

Sarah: What inspired you to launch testmag.co.uk and how does it relate to your work at British Vogue?

Jaime: I was inspired to launch Test because I felt change percolating within the publishing industry. We were in the depths of recession; photographers were in a frenzy to experiment with film as digital media began to rise in importance. I also sensed a hunger for a new platform to exhibit work without commercial purpose, as independent magazines began to fold. Vogue and Test are obviously very separate entities, yet they complement one another. Through Test I have formed relationships with new talents that might eventually move their way into the more established ranks at Vogue.

Sarah: When did you first recognize the importance and impact that the Internet would have on the fashion industry and what were the most exciting and challenging aspects of transitioning to the online world, specifically concerning Test?

Jaime: It’s become more evident in the last couple of years that fashion is going increasingly digital. You only have to look at labels like McQueen and Burberry streaming their catwalk shows live last year and the rise of “celebrity” fashion bloggers like Diane Pernet and Tavi to see that the Internet holds more and more innovative platforms yet to be explored. For me, I’m most excited about fashion film and the transition of still fashion photography to moving image.

Sarah: Can you briefly describe Test? What is your goal for it as curator, creator, director…?

Jaime: Test is a platform for creatives in the industry to come together and demonstrate the best of their abilities. It’s a celebration of the contributor and creating imagery for the purpose of inspiration. I wanted to keep it simple and direct and free from the constraints of a commercial project. I think it’s straightforwardness makes it stand out from other online publications.

Sarah: Are the projects more of an organic collaboration or do you select, recruit and commission the crew?

Jaime: All of the projects are commissioned by myself and submissions are not accepted. Each collaboration evolves “organically”. Sometimes I come up with the concept and other times an artist will approach me with their own ideas. No matter what, I think it’s important for the artist to be passionate about the piece when they’re working on their own time.

Sarah: Online fashion films and videos have become the hot, buzz-worthy mediums in the industry. How do you think this new exclusively online fashion world will affect the future of the fashion industry offline?

Jaime: It’s amazing how large an audience you can reach online, but the overall sensory experience of seeing a catwalk show in person can never be fully recreated on the web. The luxury of a live performance is still decadent enough to survive in the fashion world.

Sarah: What are your short and long-term goals and dreams for Test?

Jaime: I want to keep collaborating with incredibly talented people and collate a body of continually inspiring work. I’m also planning on directing my own fashion films eventually.

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Elise Øverland Curates F/W10

Originally published in
dossierjounal

New York-based designer Elise Øverland explains her work as combining “power, raw, moxie and sophistication” into clothes that “are not for a specific age, but more [for] the attitude of the person who wears them”. Here, she selects nine artists who inspire her and dresses them in a creatively complementary piece from her F/W10 collection.

Grayson Perry

“I would only be an idiot trying to compete with this sharply dressed man. Perhaps the blue fluffy, velvety cloud dress would be a nice shift from the babydoll shape.”

Kiki Smith

“I think her clean look and black hair would look good in a dress having no information other than shape.”

Jane and Louise Wilson

“Twins have always fascinated me; they are the same flavor, but different texture. Think these outfits would suit the girls: same color, different shape.”

Louise Bourgeois

“I think this look will suit her artistic view. Instead of having the balls under the arm, she could have the hairy armpits on top of her shoulders.”

Piotr Uklański

“This was not a hard one… Piotr came to the studio the other week after his Whitney Biennial celebration and snagged this hairy monster off the rack, matching it with gold leather dancing shoes.”

Rachel Feinstein

“I think it would be nice to see Rachel as a dominant female policewoman in this dark grey suit.”

Marina Abramović

“I prefer her naked, as she uses the body as her medium. But if I had to dress her for this story, perhaps the glossy burnt leather dress. It blends in nicely with the fresh-cut blood.”

Richard Prince

“He’s a bit the American biker/Marlboro Man, so I thought this tight-fitted, open-back leather dress would be a sexy twist [on the] Marlboro girl.”

Hope Atherton

“This outfit is already Hopey’s… She likes colors that are tight, burnt and faded.”

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In Conversation with The Buried Life

originally published in
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Image by Jamie Cary

For the past three years, The Buried Life—also known as Duncan, Ben, Dave and Jonnie—has traveled the globe pursuing the items on their 100 Things To Do Before You Die list. But competing in a krump competition and making a toast at a stranger’s wedding require vastly different wardrobes—or at least they should. As their season finale approaches, we chatted with the boys about their ability to blend in, truck-stop style and the greater meaning of it all.

Sarah Sulzberger Perpich: You seem to wear a lot of jeans, sneakers, hoodies, baseball caps… Can you guys describe your aesthetic to me?

The Buried Life: We’re pretty different. I think the road trip has probably formed a lot of our style, affected [it]. We live on the road and pick up costumes and weird little…truck stop shit. There’s a lot of thrift stops.

Sarah: Is that just because of the show or did you guys like that before?

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Showroom Antwerp @ NY Fashion Week F/W10

Attending the Showroom Antwerp presentation at the Flanders House in The New York Times building was like discovering a handful of rare gems in the treasure chest that is Fashion Week. Jam-packed with shows and presentations, many smaller designers are often overlooked during this industry frenzy. Nouveau PR, who helped run the event, made sure that this was not the case with Belgian designers: Anke Loh, Anna Heylen, Idriz Jossa, Lenny Leleu, Marc-Philippe Coudeyre, Peter Ceursters and Stephan Schneider.

Providing a unique insight into the collections was a beautiful photomontage by Flore Zoë. The Belgian fashion photographer’s work reflected her vision of the fashion process via captivating images that explored an unspoken creative tale while cohesively linking the designers’ journeys. As for the ready-to-wear clothing and accessories, there were certainly some standouts. I gasped over Marc-Philippe Coudeyre’s collared silver lamé catsuit embellished with oversized grey buttons. I also loved his cropped lambskin jackets with perforated raglan sleeves.

Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a garment that I couldn’t decipher as either a scarf or shirt. A closer look and a chat with the designer, Peter Ceursters, revealed it as a “sharf”. Ceursters explained that the scarves are vintage cardigans and men’s shirts, which he deconstructs, lines with silk and turns into sharp, cozy wraps.

On the sunnier side of the seasons, designer Lenny Leleu put my bathing suit fears to rest. Her line of swimsuits and t-shirts, which double as bodysuits, are incredibly flattering because she strategically places thick stretch elastine in all the right places. Additionally, many of the hand-made bikinis mimic art sculptures. A white bandeau constructed of thick strands of rope that churn from the chest and form a knot at the belly button before cascading back down the bottom was a personal favorite.

Finally, I came upon five mannequins—each more outrageous, inventive and inspiring than the next. The designer was Anna Heylan. Working mainly in black and white, with the exception of a beautiful smoky grey and blue restored fur, Heylan created a collection devoted to marrying menswear with womenswear. Her bold techniques—seen in the darting leather embellishments on the back of full-leg trousers, the intricately woven pattern of a raffia dress and the black velvet arm covers with gold palettes—were exquisite. Victorian hoop-inspired shirts covered layers of crinoline, and a long black, fitted smoking jacket shown over a checkered turgid turtleneck sweater cleverly mastered the duality of deconstruction and construction.

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Kathy Grayson Curates Style 2010

originially published in
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Kathy Grayson

In a fit of wanderlust, a bright-eyed and curious Kathy Grayson moved to New York City the day after she graduated from Dartmouth. Upon arrival, she just happened to land a job as a receptionist at Deitch Projects. Within a year, she went from answering phones to answering to the title of Director, curating the breakout Brooklyn show Dirt Wizards. Now an eight-year veteran of Deitch, her creative juices are still flowing and her passion as strong as ever—hence her excitement in curating her ideal opening-night outfits for ten upcoming, highly anticipated art exhibitions.

There are lots of great openings coming up this art season. Here’s what I would wear to them if I had my way and the means…..

(Above) The Whitney Biennial: “I would wear BLAND cigarette pins all over in celebration of Aurel Schmidt’s inclusion in the Biennial. Her work features cigarette butts everywhere and swirling NYC garbage. Teddy Willoughby who does BLAND is a friend of ours and would cover us with cigarettes given half the chance.”

(Below) Rosson Crow’s show at Deitch Projects in March: “One of the Zac Posen dresses this painter designed the fabric for! This is the best piece she made with him—although I bet she will be wearing it herself!”

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Dossier in Conversation with Not Just A Label

originally published in

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Stefan Siegel

“Fashion finds its freedom in the art of individuals; Not Just A Label is a place for those who find their way off the beaten track, allowing them to express themselves in a community where everything goes…break the mould, redefine the expected, re-colour the palette, inspire and be inspired.”

Launched in 2008 and founded by Stefan Siegel, NOT JUST A LABEL (NJAL) has infiltrated the fashion hierarchy with a democratic approach to style: an online, fee-free designer showcase. The site enables avant-garde and emerging designers to gain worldwide exposure in a carefully curated and respected forum, regardless of financial restrictions. Additionally, the company introduces these select designers to important industry leaders—from boutiques to fashion houses to editors to celebrities—fostering a new generation of sustainable, conscientious and vanguard talent.

Sarah Sulzberger Perpich: What did you do before NJAL?

Stefan Siegel: Everything and nothing. After my studies, I worked in fashion, media, finance and advertising while discovering the world…

Sarah: Have you always been interested in fashion?

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Dossier in Conversation with Diane Pernet

Originally published in
dossierjounal
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Image by Miguel Villalobos

Renowned for her uncompromising monochromatic style, Diane Pernet is not only a true individual but also a true pioneer, influencing and garnering respect for the world of online fashion editorial through her innovative blog, A Shaded View on Fashion, and revolutionizing fashion in film with her annual film festival, A Shaded View on Fashion Film. Pernet uses these forums to present a unique and informed point of view shaped by a diversified background, which includes stints as a prominent designer and editor. Her current incarnation as a multimedia industry innovator defies definition and, like all significant work, challenges traditional boundaries, redefining the way in which fashion is consumed, interpreted, shared, seen, and even created.

Sarah Perpich: Can you tell me a little about your early work as a designer?

Diane Pernet: I designed my own collection of elegant, sensual, minimal designs for 13 years. Five of those years, in addition to my signature line, I had a license with Seibu in Tokyo. I was the founder and the designer. The only collaborators were my team of sample and pattern makers, then people that helped with my shows.

Sarah: How does your previous work, both designing and working in fashion editorial at Joyce magazine, Vogueparis.com, Fashion Files, Elle.com, etc., influence your blog today?

Diane: All of one’s experiences come in handy. I was a designer in New York with a license in Tokyo. That was my first introduction to Japan. The fact that I was a designer is a strong motivation for wanting to help [designers] now. I was the women’s fashion editor for Joyce Ma’s magazine, Joyce, for four and a half years. I worked with the stylists, photographers and the magazine team. Elle.com and Vogueparis.com were interesting and a good presence on the Internet. At Elle I had my own styling advice column called Dr. Diane. For Fashion Files, it was assisting the producer—and [it was] my first job in Paris after costume designing. It’s funny how life goes; the producer of Fashion Files had two of her films featured in A Shaded View On Fashion Film first edition, and she was thrilled. So everything is valuable today on my blog.

Sarah: How is the second edition of ASVOFF different from the first?

Diane: The second edition was the first with a sponsor, SAMSUNG, which allowed us to do more things. We had an installation, a concert and a party, along with the three days of films. We had the awards ceremony at the Centre Pompidou with Rick Owens as the president of my jury this year.

Sarah: Of all your various roles, which have you enjoyed the most? (more…)

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