Black, grey, a cobalt blue, Schiaparelli pink, and neutrals off-set by animalist, artistic, scholastic, speckled bold colored prints and patterns. There was also some shimmery indigo and a dash of Easter egg pastels. But aside from grey and black, the dominant color was mandarin/crimson red.
There were ‘30s and ‘40s military-style and then boulder shoulder ‘80s style punk rock. They came in leather, silk and satin. Motorcycle jackets were everywhere and especially the new “it” jacket, the cropped jacket. Another big trend is double breasted jackets as well as cropped tuxedo jackets. Sharp Sleek tailoring or a cape as this seasons coat.
It’s all about draping. The newest garment to hit the runway is the skant-the skirt/pant-like a short dhoti. Skirts were either micro mini or just above the knee-mostly high waisted. They fit snuggly around the hips and were very flattering. There were some micro minis and tutus that made an appearance but for the most part the draped skirts stole the spotlight.
Aside from the skant which was everywhere there were other options, mostly the drainpipe skinny pant, harem pant, skinny jean and most importantly-everywhere was leather leggings. The skinny silhouette stays strong season after season.
Dresses were soft and fitted for a strong and chic woman (‘30s and ‘40s), or they were Jane Jetson silhouettes and were fit for any young crazy party girl (‘80s and today). Either knee-length or micro mini but almost all with asymmetrical hemlines with one exception, the silk floor length straight skirt that could have easily been confused for pants. The dresses had either beautiful prints or pattern or were plain with appliqué beads and lace to make them more appealing.
Corsets, Sequins, Bandeaus and Bustier plus Bits of Birthday suits: for this season, the corset was a prominent trend appearing either subtly or clearly apparent on suits, jackets, over dresses and sometimes just as the top. Sequins as Second skin also made its way onto t he runway creating beautiful sparkling rigid canvases to off-set a softer skirt or pant. Bondage is Back Baby!
The Little Black Dress: If you don’t think you need another one in your closet, Think Again!
Cozy cardigan and nubby chubby perfect for keeping you warm on those bitter cold days.
Opaque today-gone Sheer tomorrow.
Belts continue to get bigger and bigger each season and the same is true for this one, whether it be a obi sash and tassel belts, bejeweled big buckled belt, and the oh so familiar corset’s buckle belt; however, this season there was a revival of the thin leather belt-(perfect for creating a hourglass silhouette and enhancing the peplum).
Shoes have become the most essential component of a full-proof outfit. They have taken over the “must have” category and this year there will be many must-haves for you. All platform sandals, boots, booties, or pumps, the Higher the Flyer -especially thigh-high. One last note, another trend emerging is the return of the ankle strap so keep your eyes peeled.
Lady like elbow gloves, rebellious motorcycle gloves, leather arm bands and cozy knit fingerless warmers were everywhere.
Military hats, soft pill box hats, marching-band festooned hats, feather headdress, top hats and fur hats a plenty but if that doesn’t suit you go for the next biggest trend: hoods and delicately embroidered visors, masks and veils.
This has recently become the most important last touch to your outfit. Designers have been playing around with their jewelry in-house or in collaboration with another designer. Jewelry remains delicious and dominant in these collections appearing in giant chandelier earrings, long lariat necklaces, oversize pendant, large cocktail rinds, bangles, chain gangs, and choker necklaces that look fit so snuggly they look like are literally “chokers.” These jewelry collections keep getting better and better, not to mention more and more expensive-but these are worth it. Naked with a necklace and you’re set to go! These really are Statement Pieces.
Handbags came in all shapes and sizes, mini and moister slouchy totes, quilted leather clutches, and elegant shoulder bags. There is no “must have” bag this season, I think it lies with the shoes and other accessories.
Fur and Feathers Fix the “Cold Shoulder”
Favorite=Fendi
Fendi: This was a collection for an austere, strong Woman Warrior. The silhouettes were straight up and down, with the shoulder on boleros, jackets, capes, and dresses pointed out and up like dog ears when they hear someone at the door. These were Medieval Mistresses with black head wraps and even at time hoods. There was a sharp, chic but serious undertone to this collection and Lagerfeld paid incredible attention to detail. His master craftsmanship made raw hemlines from faraway look shaggy but up close showed various linings of fur, mohair and treated cashmere. He stays true to Fendi’s legacy of fabulous furs by using the same processes today as they used in the 1940s; treating the fur and perforating it with many holes so that it feels and looks lighter. That is exactly what he did with the carefully calculated furs, mohair and shearlings which came in cropped jackets, knee length coats, and many chubby nubbys worn with slim black or khaki drainpipe pants. The shoulders of the fur coats were different colors of fur with one white coat looking like black floppy dog ears hanging down. Fur also trimmed many jersey dresses; one of my favorites was a hooded light grey nanook dress with furry shoulder trim that was cinched in the body with a black bare chest plate creating a tiny waistline and, to top the outfit off, the model wore black and brown wooden bangles from the wrist to the elbows. Wooden chokers also were styled to match. There was also a Medieval story played out in this collection towards the second half where Lagerfeld used black breast plates like armor for the models to wear over their loose dresses and even over a fluffy fur short dress. There were beautiful cap sleeve slouchy velvet dresses paired with thigh high Mary Janes or round toe suede and leather booties. Another look that struck my eye was a knee-length lace dress made of paper thin leather bisected by a black chest plate and paired with matching above the elbow leather black gloves trimmed in the same leather paper thin lace. Fit for a Medieval princess. The palette was basic black with heather grey furs and cream striped minks potted in the mix. The boots came in black and a forest green and they created new shoe: a Mary Jane thigh high boot. And what would a Fendi show be without the bags? There was the previous seasons slouchy tote silhouette but this time it came in shellac silver in mini and large versions along with furiously fur handbags that matched the outfits perfectly. Fantastic luxurious furs-Cruella Deville would certainly approve.