Originally published in
Sarah Perpich: What are some of your earliest and fondest fashion images and memories? Growing up, did anyone in your life inspire and spark your love and curiosity of fashion or art?
Jaime Perlman: My parents sent me to art school on Saturdays in Philadelphia when I was just a kid in the ’80s—I studied sculpture. I remember walking around South Street in awe of all the punks with black lipstick and leather. I secretly wanted to be them…
Sarah: Do you see art and fashion as separate entities: Is Fashion Art? Is Art Fashion? Are you more passionate about one than the other?
Jaime: Fashion is a form of expression, like art, but it’s also a business… There’s so much scope for creativity within this industry and the lines between art and commercialism are often blurred. Fashion shoots and films that we make can be artistic with the specific intention to sell product or an image.
Sarah: Can you describe your country-hopping career path and how it led you to your role as Art Director at British Vogue?
Jaime: I left New York for the job at British Vogue. Conde Nast sponsored me to come over. I always dreamed of living in London and was slightly obsessed with British pop culture. I’ve learned so much coming here and feel lucky to have been given the opportunity to live and work abroad.
Sarah: What inspired you to launch testmag.co.uk and how does it relate to your work at British Vogue?
Jaime: I was inspired to launch Test because I felt change percolating within the publishing industry. We were in the depths of recession; photographers were in a frenzy to experiment with film as digital media began to rise in importance. I also sensed a hunger for a new platform to exhibit work without commercial purpose, as independent magazines began to fold. Vogue and Test are obviously very separate entities, yet they complement one another. Through Test I have formed relationships with new talents that might eventually move their way into the more established ranks at Vogue.
Sarah: When did you first recognize the importance and impact that the Internet would have on the fashion industry and what were the most exciting and challenging aspects of transitioning to the online world, specifically concerning Test?
Jaime: It’s become more evident in the last couple of years that fashion is going increasingly digital. You only have to look at labels like McQueen and Burberry streaming their catwalk shows live last year and the rise of “celebrity” fashion bloggers like Diane Pernet and Tavi to see that the Internet holds more and more innovative platforms yet to be explored. For me, I’m most excited about fashion film and the transition of still fashion photography to moving image.
Sarah: Can you briefly describe Test? What is your goal for it as curator, creator, director…?
Jaime: Test is a platform for creatives in the industry to come together and demonstrate the best of their abilities. It’s a celebration of the contributor and creating imagery for the purpose of inspiration. I wanted to keep it simple and direct and free from the constraints of a commercial project. I think it’s straightforwardness makes it stand out from other online publications.
Sarah: Are the projects more of an organic collaboration or do you select, recruit and commission the crew?
Jaime: All of the projects are commissioned by myself and submissions are not accepted. Each collaboration evolves “organically”. Sometimes I come up with the concept and other times an artist will approach me with their own ideas. No matter what, I think it’s important for the artist to be passionate about the piece when they’re working on their own time.
Sarah: Online fashion films and videos have become the hot, buzz-worthy mediums in the industry. How do you think this new exclusively online fashion world will affect the future of the fashion industry offline?
Jaime: It’s amazing how large an audience you can reach online, but the overall sensory experience of seeing a catwalk show in person can never be fully recreated on the web. The luxury of a live performance is still decadent enough to survive in the fashion world.
Sarah: What are your short and long-term goals and dreams for Test?
Jaime: I want to keep collaborating with incredibly talented people and collate a body of continually inspiring work. I’m also planning on directing my own fashion films eventually.
