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Monthly Archives: April 2010
Spring 2010 Trends: From Runway to Reality

All White

Neutrals

Loose & Flowy Pants

Hotpants

Boy Shorts

Tap Pants

Military

Sportswear

Painterly Prints

Florals

Denim

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Tops: less structured and more sheer

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Platform Sandals
Designers Turn to Target
Originally published in


Target has become the melting pot where high-end fashion design meets the masses, bringing the runway to the city streets. The most recent example was Zac Posen’s 24-hour shopping soiree last night in Herald Square celebrating the launch of his collection for Target. Fashion, which was once only available to an exclusive elite, has spread like a democratic pandemic erasing the distinction between the high and low in apparel design. The diffusion lines and collaborations between high-end designers with lower priced, readily available retailers have forever restructured the class system of the fashion world.
The conspicuous consumption of the 90s was cut short by the market crash and what would become the worst recession in recent history. Consumer confidence has been crushed and the retail industry has hit an all time low. Conspicuous consumption has been replaced by careful, calculated, and socially conscious spending patterns. The savvy shoppers who once flooded the high-end boutiques are charting new territories: mass marketing retail stores, outlets, low- end retailers, and online sample sales.
Target was one of the first companies to recognize the trend and helped spread the fast fashion epidemic with its uncanny ability to pick the right designers to work with them. Through their Designer Collaboration, a unique program that features well-established designers who draw inspiration from a collaborative partner, muse or creative element, as well as the Go International program, focusing on younger and emerging designer fashion for the masses, Target has paved the way for the democratization of the retail industry. Target collaborations have continued to formulate a winning equation for both the designer and retailer- the designer gains notoriety, accessibility and visibility and the big box stores gain a level of buzz and credibility among the next generation of fashion savvy customers.

Zac Posen is the latest fashion designer to expand his brand into the mainstream marketplace by partnering with Target for their Go International range. His creative collaboration includes his iconic bias cut and flattering silhouettes that dominate the red carpets. His collection also included a variety of sharp darted and ruched bikinis and one pieces in either glitzy metallics or bright paint-splattered prints.
Posen has successfully managed to maintain a prominent place among fashion’s favorite women’s ready-to-wear designers since beginning his line in 2001. For Target, Posen proves once again he is no stranger to adapting, creating an impressive fashion equilibrium between his ready-to-wear, diffusion and now his fast fashion collaborative collection.

In addition to affecting lower- and middle-income consumers, the prolonged US recession has begun to impact high income, luxury brand consumers. YM Ousley, the publisher and founding Editor of Signature9 conducted a study called “Where the Wealthy Shop Online,’ from which he concluded, “At moderately priced stores, wealthy consumers are comfortable shopping at full price, but for luxury goods, these same high earners prefer to wait for seasonal sales or visit flash sale sites.”
Rather than snatching up the latest design in a high-end boutique or department stores, today’s wealthy shopper makes decisions based on price and is more likely to wait for the designs to appear in a massive chain store like Target, H&M or TopShop.
Since the inception of the Target’s collaboration with Alexander McQueen in March 2009, fashion designers have seemed enthusiastic about spreading their fashions to the masses as they were about their ready-to-wear collections. McQueen spoke with excitement about launching the collection, “Apart from the East and West Coasts, my company doesn’t have any visibility in the U.S.,” he said. “I always liked the idea of people in the Midwest wearing my clothes. The idea of this upstart from London going to where people haven’t heard of me, I think that was interesting to me.” And, he added, “I think it’s quite adventurous of Target.”
McQueen saw Target as a chance to “win over an untapped audience” and open his brand up to an extremely viable market. The concept of equating cost with style seems passé, whereas Targets motto “Design For All” is the ultimate in modernity and for now the future of fashion. Zac Posen completely agrees with McQueen’s sentiment. “This definitely gives any woman the ability to get Zac Posen style, collection and attitude.” He is thrilled with the newfound ability to “really achieve democratization of fashion and show diversity.”

Posen expressed his concern for the viability of the fashion industry in an unstable economic climate, “Fashion is a money losing enterprise as an industry. The department stores need to change, the magazines need to change and evolve and the fragrance industry needs to change. I’m trying to shake up and change the industry. It’s resting on its’ laurels. It’s a really powerful time for the designers and for the companies to start redefining luxury beyond clothing.”
Although he was hesitant to collaborate in the past, Posen candidly explains his change of heart, “We need the money.”
Creating a collection for a different market does not devalue your brand if it is done correctly. Target works because they keep it true to the designer and it is not about watering down the fashion. Posen’s Target collection follows in Alexander McQueen’s footsteps as a perfect example of a taking a luxury fashion house and making it work for a different market because it is about the Design not the price tag. Fast fashion and collaborations with high-end designers like Posen and have proven to not only be examples of the current fashion zeitgeist, but also appear to be the fashion retail model for the future.
Elise Øverland Curates F/W10
Originally published in

New York-based designer Elise Øverland explains her work as combining “power, raw, moxie and sophistication” into clothes that “are not for a specific age, but more [for] the attitude of the person who wears them”. Here, she selects nine artists who inspire her and dresses them in a creatively complementary piece from her F/W10 collection.

“I would only be an idiot trying to compete with this sharply dressed man. Perhaps the blue fluffy, velvety cloud dress would be a nice shift from the babydoll shape.”

“I think her clean look and black hair would look good in a dress having no information other than shape.”

“Twins have always fascinated me; they are the same flavor, but different texture. Think these outfits would suit the girls: same color, different shape.”

“I think this look will suit her artistic view. Instead of having the balls under the arm, she could have the hairy armpits on top of her shoulders.”

“This was not a hard one… Piotr came to the studio the other week after his Whitney Biennial celebration and snagged this hairy monster off the rack, matching it with gold leather dancing shoes.”

“I think it would be nice to see Rachel as a dominant female policewoman in this dark grey suit.”

“I prefer her naked, as she uses the body as her medium. But if I had to dress her for this story, perhaps the glossy burnt leather dress. It blends in nicely with the fresh-cut blood.”

“He’s a bit the American biker/Marlboro Man, so I thought this tight-fitted, open-back leather dress would be a sexy twist [on the] Marlboro girl.”

“This outfit is already Hopey’s… She likes colors that are tight, burnt and faded.”
In your 30s: Dress Shirt vs. Mini Skirt?

At the end of last month it happened. I said a sad goodbye to the fun and reckless days of my twenties and finally hit the dooming 30th birthday. The moment that I thought would forever change my feelings of responsibility, maturity, dreams and a direction for my life now that I was what I had labeled “old”.
I have been in fashion for the past 14 years and styling and personal style have always come naturally to me. I always broke rules as I saw fit and took outrageous fashion risks without even blinking an eyelash. Fashion has always been fun and creative for me, and most importantly, I have never censored myself or even felt bound to any certain fashion stereotype.
Yet two days after turning the big 3-0, I began to read my normal mélange of $17 international fashion magazines that had piled up in the corner of my apartment and it immediately hit me: the topic of age appropriate dressing is everywhere-even the difference between 20-somethings and 30-somethings. Harpers Bazaar Magazine is famous for covering this conundrum and continuously tries to present clothing options for all age groups in “Fabulous at Every Age.”
I had not even considered the quandary of age appropriate dressing during my sleepless nights filled with anxiety about turning thirty. But now I wondered did I also need change my style simply because I was now 29 and 364 days old? Does the 365th day now mean that society has drawn a new line in the sand of my fashionable lifespan?
My immediate reaction to age appropriate dressing was to reconsider my existing wardrobe and myself. Did I agree with all of the reports that the 30s meant the end of my favorite mini skirts, bikinis, tattoos, and oodles and oodles of jewelry? Did it mean that my brand new skinny jeans with slashes worn with over-sized t-shirts would now be transformed from rebellious and trendy to messy and tacky?
Every blog, magazine, book or website I read all highlighted the notion that in your 20s anything goes. Conversely, the 30 year mark all indicate the same message: This is an age when a style change is needed.
In “How Not to look Old”, a book written by former beauty editor of Glamour, Charla Krupp, there is a section on tips for turning 30, and what clothing is now deemed too young. She included: micro-minis, flip-flops in the city, nameplate necklaces, boy shorts and collegiate sweaters and t-shirts. Every single one of those items is presently hanging in my closet.
After digesting all of the age old rules of dressing and reassessing my closet, I realized that especially in this youth obsessed, botox injecting, personal training and raw food dieting age, people are beginning to look younger and younger as they get older and older. As the New York Times wrote in 2005, “Is 40 the new 30? Style redefines age.” I believe that there is no longer a finite timeline that dictates what you can and cannot wear and at what age. The lines have become sandy and although I do agree that mother/daughter shopping trips and copycat clothing seems ridiculous, it truly depends on the person, and putting the pieces together.
Although Coco Chanel’s philosophy was “There is no fashion for the old”, I believe that fashion gets even more exciting and in fact flattering with age and experience. The key is tailoring and proportions and -most importantly- poise and confidence. As long as I still feel attractive and sexy in my mini skirts or low cut blouses, perhaps altering a small accessory or piece of the fashion puzzle if need be, I will continue to wear my masterpieces.
