Monthly Archives: July 2006

A New Couture

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There is a great controversy about the relevancy and need for couture today. It is running rampant among fashion historians and reporters, as well as in the design houses. The latest craze among fashion designers (and their premier clientele) is a new form of couture: “Demi-Couture” or “Demi-Monde.” By embellishing the original title, designers are re-affirming its presence and importance in the fashion industry.

“Demi-Couture” bridges the gap between ready-to-wear and haute couture. Harvey Nichols was a step ahead of the game in September 2005 when he opened “Demi-Couture” which featured mainly eveningwear. The buying director at the time, Averyl Oates, explained this customizations service in an interview with the Telegraph. “It’s the antithesis of mass manufacture… If you like a dress but want it with a cap sleeve, we can speak to the designer and make it happen.”

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A new type of “Demi-Couture” is present in the Fall 2006 collections of design houses such as Balenciaga, Rodarte, Bottega Venetta, Rochas, Yves Saint Laurent, and Lanvin, as well as Prada and Dior. Designers are embracing this new form of couture internationally.

“Demi-Couture” differs from haute couture because it is not created for one particular client. However, it still imbues the wearer with an ambience of exclusivity. In fact, this new couture can be purchased by any woman.. at least, any woman who can afford the extravagant prices. Don’t be fooled by the fact that these pieces are seen hanging on a store rack just like anything else. You can now find a Rochas stretch-satin dress for $19,920, a Rodarte white cashmere and chiffon coat for $24,125, and even a Balenciaga velvet ribboned and glass embroidered dress for $101,370 (!). However hard to fathom, these pieces are selling… and if you think that’s steep, keep in mind that a haute couture dress can carry a price tag as high as $1,000,000.

The hefty price tag is due to the considerable amount of time and effort required for a designer to create it. The piece can take anywhere from a hundred to six or seven hundred hours of manual labor to complete. According to American Vogue, these designers “make no apology for the cost of these looks, because it is, they say, directly commensurate with the expense of production and rarity of the work.” Demi-Couture is taking luxury to an entirely new playing level.

With the high level of attention (not to mention superior craftsmanship) given to each piece, a designer really benefits. In addition to having a venue to express their creativity and skill, they can attach these incredible price-tags without being scoffed at. In fact, these clients have been very satisfied, and the design houses have shown a marked positive response as well as a tidy profit.

Never before has there been such a willing, demanding clientele for the products in the new “Demi-Couture” collections. This select group of designers finally has the chance to share their artful imagination, fashion curiosity, and endless creativity with the world. They have broken all the records for luxury and exclusivity.. we can only look on in wonder.
-Sarah Perpich

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